Arrival in Colchester/Wivenhoe

After just over two weeks in the UK, I am finally settling into my home and getting to know my surroundings. I spent the first two weeks after my arrival traveling between properties for rent throughout the area to find a place to call home for the next 9 months. While this was a supremely exhausting and at times frustrating process, it was also a great way to see different neighborhoods and meet local residents.

The University of Essex is located in Colchester, a town of about 150,000 (and rapidly growing) located 50 miles northeast of London. While not a typical destination for visitors to the UK, Colchester is a town full of history that spans back to the earliest days of human civilization in the country. Colchester itself is said to be the oldest recorded town in Britain, with its first mention dating back to AD 79. After the Roman conquest of Britain, the town served as the capital city and was surrounded by a large stone wall that still wraps around the town's border to this day.

The town also features an 11th Century castle, simply known as Colchester Castle, built on top of the vaults of the old Roman temple. Located in the center of town, it is surrounded by a beautifully maintained park, through which the River Colne flows. The museum at the castle tells the story of the structure as well as the history of the town at its peak during the 14th and 15th centuries. Colchester flourished during this time as a market town and was the center of the woolen cloth industry. At one point it was among the most prosperous wool towns in England.

During the 17th Century, Colchester developed as a garrison town due to fears of attack from its close neighbors, the French and the Dutch. The tourist board claims that Colchester and the garrison are actually the origin points for the popular nursery rhyme, "Humpty Dumpty." As the story goes, Humpty Dumpty was what locals called a large cannon that sat atop the walls surrounding the city. During a siege in 1648, enemy cannon fire damaged the wall beneath Humpty Dumpty, knocking it to the ground. Those stationed within the walls attempted to raise the cannon up to another section of the wall, but it was so heavy that "All the King's horses and all the King's men couldn't put Humpty together again." 

While the University is located in Colchester, I decided to rent a terrace house in the small village of Wivenhoe, just south of the University. Historically a fishing and shipbuilding community, Wivenhoe is a picturesque little village located along the Rive Colne that served as the main port for Colchester during its time as a busy market town. Now, Wivenhoe is mostly home to families who like the quiet, natural beauty of the riverside community or students looking for a more peaceful place to focus on their studies. The area is full of walking paths that wind through the woods and along the river, taking you past hundreds of small, docked sailboats and terrific viewpoints. I am really looking forward to being able to walk out my door when my studies become too intense or I need a break from essay writing and find myself deep in nature within 5 minutes. The village also has a few cozy shops, restaurants, cafes, and of course pubs. Although, the center of activity seems to be the local bookshop, a room smaller than an average bedroom, stacked from floor to ceiling with books and resources on what to do in the area, news of community events, and local history.

As I mentioned earlier, Essex county is growing rapidly due to the high cost of living in London. Many people from the area commute to the city for work, a trend which is likely to continue, adding to the expansion of Colchester. The University of Essex has also been expanding since it was established in 1963. New construction is taking place across the campus, as it has developed both in reputation and funding. While I knew I was not going to be studying in a location with the same bustle or arts and culture of London (or my previous home in NYC for that matter), Colchester and Essex county have a lot to offer and I am very excited to become familiar with an area of this country that I would otherwise pass by. With its small town environment and rich history, it truly feels like I am experiencing a part of British culture that I wouldn't receive in some of the bigger cities or by simply visiting the UK as a tourist. I believe that this is a unique and important aspect of being a Rotary Scholar. Living in a place like Colchester, you realize that London is not all there is in this country (even though nearly everyone who heard I was studying in the UK assumed that is where I would be!), and that while the British countryside tends to be associated with words like "quaint," it is also home to many people and carries with it a culture and community distinct from the London metropolis.


Long story short, I am thrilled with my new home and look forward to a year of difficult, concentrated study, intermixed with cold nights spent over a pint in the local pub, visits to the seaside, and contemplative walks. It will certainly be an adjustment living here, but adjustment to the newness of a place is what makes living overseas so exciting-- the experience of becoming part of a community, learning to love aspects of it, working to adapt to others, and in the process recognizing the uniqueness of the community that you come from.